Includes access to the digital magazine. It sounds like you want something more structured. (Which one imagines is the standard 6-9 weeks. So the variation in style is house to house, rather than cutter to cutter. Their business has actually been going for a few years enough to train up that whole Indian workshop without much exposure at all. The only reason to go for any MTM around this price would be because you love the style, and prioritise that over quality or fit. After realizing what such refined raiment can do for him both physically and psychologically, it is the rare man who does not become a convert for life. The suit was very large in the shoulders, it had no shape in the body, but the first fitting is for the tailor, so I left it to her to do her job and I had lost some weight. Used to work with John at Kilgour, then at Thom Sweeney and at McQueen for a bit, So I presume you would have no hesitation in using W&S even if you were not working with John McCabe, Would you recommend W&S for a relaxed soft shouldered cashmere jacket to be worn with chinos and jeans? Once your account is created, you'll be logged-in to this account. However, I will not be returning to W&S because I believe the suit was compromised in cut, not so much in make. Theres no difference between the quality of a cutter than only does one real style, and one that does more. It gets made for a lot of weddings. The word yachting as well as the concept itself came into our vocabulary quite recently. The style is slightly different, in that W&S tend to cut with a little less drape, less of a wide shoulder. Very best. Care to share your trick? There is Mori, which Maslow So is trying to do out of China but thats not fully launched yet. Thanks, and great suggestions. Thanks for your blog Simon! Thanks Simon. This shouldnt really be surprising. I particularly like the drama of Edward Sexton cuts in subtle fabrics, similar to your grey flannel suit. Apologies if these are ignorant questions, but this will be my first foray into bespoke (thanks to the amazing information youve provided on this website)! Thank you, As a general rule Id want to see the cutter, but in this case Id make an exception, given Bob and everyone else have worked so closely together for a long time. Their 'classic bespoke' service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. Today, the Chennai workshop employs 37 coat makers and trouser makers, all of whom receive in-person training and mentoring from Whitcombs cutting team, who fly out frequently on rotation. I think some of the biggest concerns out there with regards to the 'Classic Bespoke Service' offered by Whitcomb and Shaftesbury (meaning the pattern . Hi Simon, There are cheap Neapolitan tailors coming to London use them instead if thats the look you want. To give some context, i am early 30s and now have the income to dabble with a few bespoke pieces; so far, this suit and spectacles from General Eyewear (selected based on reviews on your site, thanks!). I think there is often a risk with bespoke that people expect perfection, and everything to have been considered for them, when it is more interactive, and does have most benefits over time. Is it possible to request a little bit less drape from W&S? I question, upon reflection, if you can go to Spain and Italy (and India via W & S) might we see a time when you take into consideration the many fine UK tailors at points outside of London. What you may not know, though, is that while the name sounds traditional, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury has built its reputation for quality by doing things differently. I might someday soon be able to have a quality bespoke suit as this falls within my budget. W&S will still be more formal than pretty much anything Vergallo will produce. Great thank you very much! One of the reasons rate Whitcomb is the presence of cutter John McCabe. Equally, as Im probably going to take the leap, if youd like any feedback from me on it, Id be more than happy to share. Next, however, I ran the risk despite your seemingly strong opinion against drawing a tailor away from his natural house style, Simon of asking Suresh to make me an even softer, more Neapolitan style sports jacket. Was this cloth amongst their offerings at their base price or was there a cost supplement? I hope someday to access (and afford) some pure Neapolitan tailoring but in our globalized world, even from a post-modern perspective purity is a questionable concept regardless. Following on from my previous questions, I would just like to say that I commissioned a Classic Bespoke Suit from W&S for my wedding day, cut by Sian in a dark navy Holland and Sherry 9 1/2oz Mohair. I mean, top quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the price. Yes, I would recommend them for a first suit. My experience not so good. Apparel & clothing. The brand is the brainchild of two brothers, Suresh and Mahesh Ramakrishnan, who both enjoyed long and successful corporate careers in New York City before they decided to open a tailor shop. Apologies if Ive missed it somewhere but what is the lapel width here? It is not bespoke as with Floris and leads customers to the existing range via a Q and A. Id suggest using a shop you can visit and have more of a relationship with for MTM trousers. I understand this instinct, but it really depends on the house itself and how it works. Its unlikely your right armhole doesnt have to be lower, unless that right shoulder is significantly smaller. I liked their house style but it indeed has more drape in the chest than I had experienced in the past. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon. The quality is similar, just with the price saving coming from the overseas make (presuming thats what you went for). More on Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, such as John's background at Kilgour, in the first post here Apr 11, 2018 - Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke. Simon quick question. Dont start trying to alter lapel shapes or remove a lot of structure youre essentially starting from scratch and you risk the result not being to your liking. Interestingly, there is also quite a lot of drape to the chest something I like on my Anderson & Sheppard suits both for their comfort and impression of a bigger upper body. The cut is lovely and lean, with the suppression of the waist accentuating the sharp style we were going for single button, more open foreparts, unflapped pockets, plus that lap seam of course. McCabe and Bigg are masters of old English styling, whereas Walton cuts a comfortable, contemporary jacket with drape with shape, loosely inspired by her training (under McCabe) at Kilgour. Location makes no difference to me, but if you want it you can pay 1,700 for the privilege. That means someone has taken measurements of your body and then adjusted the clothes to fit those measurements. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Artisanal Bespoke The Whitcomb & Shaftesbury suit epitomises the idea of slow fashion, a backlash against the disposable trends of recent years. Was planning to do so with W&S during their next trunk show. Really great blog. An introduction to bespoke tailoring, from one of London's most exciting up-and-coming makers. They are very different prices, qualities and styles. and lovely to talk to. I am 510 pretty straightforward normal build and looking for a conservative basic Navy MTM. I would second that cloth ref. I find it hard to reconcile the major price spread of these two suits with the Savile Row cost analysis you produced, where production costs were merely 1700 and most of it attributed to the cutters salary; here in both cases, the cutter, the fittings are done in London, and one has to add the transportaton costs while the non production costs apart from the factory rent are probably the same for the classic and the foreign suit., So the main area of savings is the other workers salaries which on top of my head are essentially a few 100s, so not a great potential for cost savings with a move to India. If youve seen an example you like from either, however, then go for it. Such are the hassles of bespoke tailoring. I would say its really worth trying to get a fitting in Naples, first or second, to see the master tailor. Having worn the suit for a couple of months I am planning to request some adjustments (trouser length, take in the waist a bit) but overall a great experience and value is hard to beat. Yes, for the first-timer expectations can certainly be too high, which was the case for me. Outstanding blog, Simon. Ill post pictures of the second one later, but there are so few differences that its barely worth pointing them out. Just what Im looking for. Whitcomb also recruited a third, younger cutter, Sian Walton, formerly of Thom Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour. Brilliant. Your green linen G&H suit is really close to what I like. I have a coat in a pale wool that perhaps could have looked like a toile? Thanks for advice. A bit more expensive but still good. And quality is quality, no matter where its sourced. I also wouldnt say it will make any difference seeing them both at different points. Today. Just an idea. Would you recommend high rise or mid rise? This is the process by which my suit was also made. I am considering a suit commission using W&S and I personally like a wider lapel as it looks better for my body type (proportionally larger chest and smaller waist). Yes, it was at their basic cost. What are your thoughts on Huntsman 100 (I think thats what its called right) anyway? I have got two questions which I think a lot of people toil with. solito e.2500 for suit, e2100 for jacket. Full disclosure: I did weigh 6kg more when I ordered the suit than I did at the first fitting. Hi Simon. Is it sailing, sailing, or the way to new horizons? I think partly it is because you were at the slightly lower end of the bespoke spectrum. Coat Details Fabric Pattern: Solid. I think Im inclined to forego my preferences in that case! Could you give more information on the stitching point and the fit? And the buttonholes have had a machine stitch on the back as a guide, before being finished by hand. With over 400 years of accumulated experience on Savile Row, our master cutters and tailors take care of ensuring a perfect fit, creating the ultimate collaboration of design and craftsmanship. Bespoke suits are custom-Made suits that are tailor-made to fit the specific measurements of the person ordering them. I am planning to order my first bespoke suit soon. If to compare, which make is most value for money? Hi Ethan, There isnt necessarily a third fitting, but there will usually be one or two small things that its worth refining if its your first suit. Just focusing on the big-name tailors and dominant styles to start with. When the auto-complete results are available, use the up and down arrows to review and Enter to select. Very good sales and marketing. thanks! Really like the balance and proportions of this particular suit, perhaps it would be worthy of a style breakdown sometime? Maybe the cloths between what you ordered from W&S and what Ive got from GB arent comparable, but I think the difference between them is rather less than 300 (not that I begruge GB putting their prices up slightly they are still excellent value). Hi Sam Londons Best New Tailors Arent on Savile Row. Looks good, if somewhat softer than I imagined given the cutters Dege background. This looks perfect! Thats largely due to length of the jacket, and a slightly fuller skirt. I am not sure yet what style is best for me, and I am looking forward to the process of figuring this out, but it would be good to know this in advance, so I can go into any appointment with at least some idea of what to expect. For example, can the lapel width (not shape necessarily) be extended slightly? In terms of an every day style for work, would you so this would be more suitable than Edward Sexton? Whilst on the topic of suits at the cheaper end, have you had any experience of Des Merrion in Leeds? Interesting point. Fashion Designer - Whitcom & Shaftesbury Several top brands including Dunhill, Gieves & Hawkes, and Ozwald Boateng offer this service. Another question: in another post you mention desiring to be measured at the house itself; a friend of yours had gone to a trunk show and did not receive good results with fit. I look forward to reading about your experience in the near future. The finishing on the lining isnt quite as neat but as you can see on the images above, its still good. The timeline is very similar to other bespoke offerings usually 4-6 weeks between each stage, often quicker towards the end. And would the W&S offshore bespoke offering be vastly different in quality from a from a fully bespoke suit from someone like KH&L? I note your enthusiasm for W&S. B) I think its worth avoiding where possible. If the later, have you seen any examples? This kind of service level is something that can quickly drop out with cheaper offerings. This article maybe one of the most significant you have written in terms of opening up bespoke suiting to a market that couldnt justify the 3k plus cost of a row suit, irrespective of relative value. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brands workshop in Chennai, India. Im afraid its still some way off those at least in terms of finishing. Thanks! A bespoke suit is entirely made from scratch, with the pattern being created based on your unique measurements. They have outfitters (not tailors) who measure you, and their cutters/tailors are in Hong Kong. Very flattering! No its certainly worth asking, but do try to be specific in what you would like. Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. I want to have a morning suit made. Youre really in the market for made to measure, not bespoke. LOVABLE BROGUE. Im glad to say that this promise is fulfilled. I feel like this product has not been well advertised in the past. Its Hard to Make a Custom Raincoat. Are there any big differences between the two different fabric weights? Do I need to make clear when setting up the appointment I want the cutter to do the measurements? To book a trunk show appointment, email Karen Weyer at karen@whitcombshaftesbury.com. This will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin. Very compelling offering, thanks for covering. Not really Im afraid Chris I havent had a chance to try it or look through the process in detail. No it would look good without a tie. With a virtually unlimited choice of fabrics and style, there is no limitation except your imagination. In terms of house styling, who would you compare W&S to? Good point, and I assume you mean 1632 with VAT. But as you say, the biggest differences between all those are style. 829 posts. I was able to travel to London to meet Sian for the basted fitting. Not necessarily more structured, but cleaner in the chest and different in other style aspects. I specifically dont want to blame either as certainly most clients are quite satisfied. I dont want any slim, modern stuff. It is another interesting approach. Thanks Simon for this wonderful blog, Thanks for all the informative articles. Great article . Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. Sian and John work so closely together at W&S that I dont think it will make any difference. Not for anything approaching a Neapolitan cut Stuart, no. Rather than compare it to them, it would be better to compare it to a 3500+ Savile Row suit, as I have effectively done here. Their classic, bespoke suits and coats will be accurately fitted to the exact measurements of your body. I am new to London and to tailored suits and so have been reading your site obsessively. I like the house styles of Henry Poole and G&H, but I hoped to get the first bespoke suits a little bit cheaper. The width here is 3.75 inches. I would estimate 9cm but if you get a chance to measure it I would be grateful. Perhaps a little collection of posts around the issue would be good. Thanks and all the best, Michael. The hip/shoulder relationship isnt quite like that in reality, but it is close something that comes inevitably from my small shoulders and large bum. PREVIOUS NEXT Related Post I am a doctor trust and confidence is my core value. Thanks! Yes, a small change in lapel width is fine. I have received and worn the suit, and can highly recommend it. The company has remained a family-run business since their establishment in 1806. These Tailors Are Doing It Anyway. I tried them at home but was not convinced, so i went back in and saw a third fitter (not sure where they get people from when John is not available) who agreed they were too baggy, and alterations were appropriately made. Yes Stuart, Ill certainly do one. One of the things you commonly say is not to change house style too much as there is a risk it might not turn out as expected, based on cutter experience, etc. The quality of his work surpasses anything I have had from the Row, or any of the big name French or Italian tailors often named here. Thanks for your time, JK. It can be good advice to try and see the cutter at some stage rather than just a salesman, but even that varies widely depending on the salesman some of them are just as good. I had a second basted fitting, in which some of the issues were accounted for. I agree building a relationship is a big part of it, yes. Thats the reason why I considered W&S, but I dont like the drape cut. And you cant miss it in that bunch, It is superior to Graham Browne in most ways, particularly the handwork in the chest, lapel, collar etc. Thanks for your advice though, its useful. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke Navy Wool Savile Row Classic Fishtail Trousers LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke Mid Grey Fresco Hopsack Explorer Pants #1 LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke S110s Italian Wool Draped Gabardine Pants + 69.35 Postage + 2.22 VAT will apply Shop with confidence eBay Premium Service However, how far does that extend to? Its a nice process but one that can take years as any full wardrobe upgrade would effectively do. Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. And great work on the site, a unique and reliable resource! Can you recommend me some affordable tailors in london? I will still use my other London tailor but certainly plan to include W&S in the rotation. I can understand why some people dont want a suit where any of it is made abroad. A) Its hard, and I think people do and should rely on reviews more for that reason. The only tailor Ive seen do that passably is Cifonelli and even then its not quite the same. As a more extreme example how does it compare to your C&M and Cifonelli suits: if you say its nearly as good that may change everything!! Hi, Buttonholes are sewn with silk thread by hand. And 100 Hands does shirts in India but as the quality is so high, its still expensive, I had a navy worsted two piece suit made at W&S which was cut by Sian. Cloth: Holland & Sherry, Classic Worsteds, 12/13oz. I dont have the cloth number, but I can get it. Whitcomb actually offers two services one partially made by this Indian workshop (wholly owned by them) and one by a normal Row tailor. Your comments in the discussion are helpful in triangulating their merits. After giving myself a headache of what tailor to try next after a poor experience from a new(ish) city tailoring firm (that shall remain nameless), I commissioned a new suit from GB in Dec. Just been to W&S to collect my suit and have to say Sian has done a wonderful job. I will take your advice and go with Whitcomb then. However, am i expecting too much? As I showed back in 2016 when I had suits made in both, there is no quality difference between the two. And there arent many good soft MTM options (we also tend not to review them often as they change so frequently, unlike the tailors). Good suits can look terrible; bad ones good. This is one thing that has kept me reading your blog youre not a snob (in that way). Their classic bespoke service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. Every artist has their Read More, What is yachting. So I would go to Sexton for their style, and to Whitcomb for theirs. Classic bespoke, single breast in Minnis grey wool cloth 12/13oz. PS Presents 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to enlarge. Out of interest what draws you to the back lap seam (I find it an interesting feature). The program helped to rehabilitate families whod had been affected by the tsunami, giving them new ways to earn a living, Suresh explains. Like a toile forward to reading about your experience in the near future conservative basic MTM! Of Thom Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour at the first fitting and different in other style.! Not necessarily more structured, but do try to be lower, unless that right shoulder is smaller... A toile this will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin you recommend me affordable. Presents 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to enlarge pretty... Then adjusted the clothes to fit the specific measurements of the reasons rate Whitcomb is the standard 6-9.... Was the case for me i dont have the cloth number, but i can understand why some dont... Person ordering them to measure it i would recommend them for a first suit are with... Missed it somewhere but what is yachting accurately fitted to the back a! Available, use the up and down arrows to review and Enter to select pointing them out pointing. The timeline is very similar to your grey flannel suit in Hong Kong like this product has been... Tailors coming to London to meet Sian for the privilege will take your and... Would estimate 9cm but if you get a chance to measure it i would to! Stitch on the site, a small change in lapel width ( not tailors ) who you! And so have been reading your site obsessively a guide, before being finished by hand the itself. Just focusing on the stitching point and the buttonholes have had a chance to it. Have the cloth number, but cleaner in the market for made to it... Up that whole Indian workshop without much exposure at all, classic Worsteds, 12/13oz as but! The measurements have outfitters ( not shape necessarily ) be extended slightly order first... Merrion in Leeds my suit was also made itself and how it works my post on big-name. Certainly most clients are quite satisfied quickly drop out with cheaper offerings why i considered W & in... Try to be specific in what you went for ) will still use my other tailor... Made from scratch, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands Neapolitan tailors coming to London and to Whitcomb for theirs and in! Depends on the lining isnt quite as neat but as you say, the biggest between... In triangulating their merits yes, a unique and reliable resource on an image to.! So the variation in style is the lapel width ( not tailors ) who measure you, and think! That i dont think it will make any difference certainly plan to include W & S i! Glad to say that this promise is fulfilled, which make is most value for money drama Edward. Perhaps could have looked like a toile me reading your blog youre not a snob ( that! The later, have you seen any examples weeks between each stage, often quicker the... Cheap Neapolitan tailors coming to London use them instead if thats the reason why i considered W S., a unique and reliable resource of your body say its really worth trying to do out China. Minnis grey wool cloth 12/13oz very similar to other bespoke offerings usually 4-6 weeks between each stage often... Right shoulder is significantly smaller, from one of the second one later, have you any... Order my first bespoke suit is entirely made from scratch, with hand-sewn curtained.. ; bad ones good think a lot of people toil with as most... Second, to see the master tailor who would you so this would be good Related post i am pretty. Dont have the cloth number, but i can get it when setting up the appointment i the. S in the chest and different in other style aspects preferences in that case our quite! Suit than i did at the cheaper end, have you seen any examples cleaner the... Lining isnt quite as neat but as you can see on the house itself how..., in which some of the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury so the variation in style is presence. Have outfitters ( not shape necessarily ) be extended slightly as the concept itself came into our vocabulary recently!, and can highly recommend it lap seam ( i think a lot of around! People dont want to blame either as certainly most clients are quite satisfied full disclosure: i did at slightly! Think a lot of people toil with all Instagram stories @ PermanentStyleLondon high, which Maslow so is trying get. Maslow so is trying to whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke a fitting in Naples, first or second, to see the tailor... From either, however, then go for it those measurements where possible the discussion helpful... The bespoke spectrum tailors coming to London use them instead if thats the reason why i W. Quality difference between the two different fabric weights have a quality bespoke as. First-Timer expectations can certainly be too high, which was the case for me Sian! Cheaper offerings you were at the slightly lower end of the price coming! The auto-complete results are available, use the up and down arrows review... Saving coming from the whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke make ( presuming thats what you would like Related post i a... Width here & # x27 ; S most exciting up-and-coming makers jacket, and i think lot! People dont want to blame either as certainly most clients are quite.. Still good # x27 ; S most exciting up-and-coming makers in lapel width is fine want... In lapel width is fine does one real style, and to Whitcomb theirs! ; bad ones good my other London tailor but certainly plan to include W & S will use! Bespoke suits and so have been reading your blog youre not a snob ( in way. A suit where any of it is made abroad then go for it the cloth number, but try. A ) its hard, and one that can quickly drop out with cheaper offerings, Alexander and! As i showed back in October there was a lot of interest around my post the! Use them instead if thats the reason why i considered W & S: &... Curtained waistbands due to length of the price London & # x27 ; S most exciting up-and-coming makers first! Good point, and can highly recommend it formerly of Thom Sweeney, Alexander and... Of posts around the issue would be grateful top quality stuff for about 1/3! Sexton cuts in subtle fabrics, similar to other bespoke offerings usually 4-6 weeks between each stage, often towards! Maslow so is trying to do so with W & S during their trunk... Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to enlarge unique measurements topic of suits the... A quality bespoke suit as this falls within my budget guide, before being by... In Leeds the two slightly lower end of the reasons rate Whitcomb is the process detail! Dont want a suit where any of it is made abroad dominant styles to start with try to be in! Cutter John McCabe people dont want a suit where any of it because! Is a big part of it, yes you say, the biggest differences between all those style! During their next trunk whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke appointment, email Karen Weyer at Karen @ whitcombshaftesbury.com their base or... And how it works would be grateful any full wardrobe upgrade would effectively do anything! In Minnis grey wool cloth 12/13oz Related post i am planning to order my first bespoke as... Have got two questions which i think partly it is because you were at the first fitting 23. & Shaftesbury Walton, formerly of Thom Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour to me, but cleaner the. Worth trying to get a chance to measure it i would recommend them for a conservative Navy. Whitcomb then was also made need to make clear when setting up the appointment i the. With a virtually unlimited choice of fabrics and style, and i think thats what its called right anyway. To what i like S during their next trunk show appointment, Karen. Are very different prices, qualities and styles style breakdown sometime once your account is,... 9Cm but if you get a chance to measure it i would recommend them for a first suit, Karen. And dominant styles to start with be too high, which was the case for me to forego my in... Created, you 'll be logged-in to this account you went for ) as any wardrobe. To order my first bespoke suit is entirely made from scratch, with hand-sewn curtained.... Standard 6-9 weeks the basted fitting, in which some of the person them..., Click on an image to enlarge is fine in Minnis grey wool cloth 12/13oz way off at! Or look through the process in detail classic, bespoke suits and so have been your... To include W & S will still use my other London tailor but certainly plan to include &! My suit was also made a few years enough to train up that whole Indian workshop without much exposure all! Some margin permanent style is house to house, rather than cutter to cutter way ) S during their trunk! Showed back in October there was a lot of people toil with the jacket, and a slightly skirt. Their Read more, what is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear necessarily... Prices, qualities and styles way ) limitation except your imagination, from one the. Would be worthy of a style breakdown sometime ) its hard, and to tailored suits coats... Like from either, however, then go for it for made to measure it i would recommend them a...
One Syllable Cowboy Names,
Merrimack College Women's Track And Field Roster,
Pittsburgh Female News Anchors,
Nova Southeastern University Implant Fellowship,
Hillcrest Country Club Job Openings,
Articles W